Sweet & Savory: Traditions from around the world

December 19th, 2023

By Andrea E. McHugh

Chinese

Basil Yu

Yagi Noodles

Basil Yu can remember noshing on almond cookies as a child around Chinese New Year, perhaps not paying much attention to their symbolism, as it’s easy to be distracted by their buttery goodness. But the golden cookies, of which there are a number of variations, are meant to bring good fortune in the New Year.

“They’ll eat these cookies because they’ll symbolize like gold coins. Typically, it’s all about either good health or money,” Yu laughs. Yu’s parents grew up in southern China before emigrating to the U.S. and opening a Chinese restaurant in New Hampshire. “I think traditionally, they didn’t use almonds at all, but the cookies looked like almonds, the way they were shaped… and then people started to incorporate the almonds into them afterwards.”

Yu has shared a recipe from his mother, which he says is more “cakey” than some store-bought versions, which can have more elaborate detail and a texture like shortbread. “I use butter here, but they will use lard to also give it that texture, but mom said they would actually use pieces of fatty pork in there.”

Heavy desserts after dinner aren’t the norm in Chinese culture, Yu says, adding that if anything, diners may enjoy some fruit to cleanse the palate. Instead, almond cookies on Chinese New Year would typically be enjoyed with a cup of tea. “This one is more Hong Kong, definitely a lot of a Western influence, which is fitting for me,” he laughs.

This holiday season, Yu has created a Chinese-and-Japanese-inspired rendition of the Feast of the Fishes, a multi-course meal typically enjoyed on Christmas Eve in Italian-American culture, for Yagi Noodles. Diners can expect Sichuan-style monkfish braised in doubanjiang and chilies and Jonah crab fried rice as just part of the 10-course family style menu (offered at Yagi Noodles from December 19 through December 30).


CHINESE ALMOND COOKIES
Yields: 16 cookies

INGREDIENTS:
2 cup all-purpose
flour
½ tsp baking soda
1 tsp Kosher salt
1 c (2 sticks) butter,
softened
1⅓ cup sugar
2 large eggs
1½ tsp almond
extract
1 large egg yolk
1 T water
2 T Newport Sea Salt
1 cup sliced almonds

INSTRUCTIONS:

  1. Whisk flour, baking soda and salt together in a mixing bowl and set aside.
  2. In a stand mixer with a paddle attachment, whip butter and sugar on medium high until light and
    fluffy, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed.
  3. Add eggs one at a time to the butter mixture and mix until thoroughly combined.
  4. Turn off the mixer and add the mixed dry ingredients into the butter mixture.
  5. Mix on low speed until just combined, scrape down the sides and mix until a dough forms.
  6. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and chill until the dough is firm enough to scoop, about 1 hour.
  7. Once dough is chilled and ready to be scooped, pre-heat the oven to 350F.
  8. Using a scoop or spoon, scoop 1oz — about 2 tablespoons — of dough and form a ball.
  9. Place dough balls on the parchment lined baking sheet a few inches apart from each other.
  10. Using the palm of your hand, flatten the dough balls until they are about a half-inch thick. Wet
    your hands if the dough is too sticky.
  11. Mix the egg yolk with water to form an egg wash and brush on the cookie top and sides.
  12. Cover all visible sides of cookie with almonds and lightly press into the dough until it sticks.
  13. Finish with a small pinch of Newport Sea Salt over each cookie.
  14. Bake in the oven until golden brown or about 8-12 minutes. Exact timing will depend on a lot of factors, such as your type of oven and the shape/temperature of the dough.
  15. Allow to cool and enjoy!

Next page: Italian pepatelli

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